Like Fontaine-Gagnard and Jean Chartron, we have a lot of ‘previous’ with Boyer-Martenot. First off, it was Yves (a Boyer) with whom we used to taste in the cellar; then he handed us over (!) to wife Marie Cécile (a Martenot). Now son Vincent is very much in charge, and is determined to keep pushing forward, aiming for the wines to be among there with the likes of Lafon, Ente, Roulot etc.

Recently, Vincent really decided to shake things up. He took his 2017 vintage, and promptly split it in half. 50% underwent the ‘élevage’ in the usual way, 12 months in oak barrels before a relatively early bottling. The other 50% went into concrete vats, shaped like eggs, and there the wines lay for 2 years. The results have been extraordinary, with a definition and form unlike any other white burgundies we have ever tasted. Indeed, Vincent is so pleased that the forthcoming 2018 vintage will be 100% ‘egg’.