We thought that finding a top Volnay was going to be a tricky ask. Why? Well, our previous experiences in the village had involved the wines of de Montille, Marquis d’Angerville, and Pousse d’Or, all in the premier league. But as soon as we met Jean-Pierre Charlot, those memories disappeared, we’d landed one of the great jackpots.

The burly Jean-Pierre (ex-rugby player, number 8), Joseph Voillot’s son-in-law, has finally found someone to take over the reins, nephew Etienne Chaix. Much relief all round. Jean-Pierre, of course, is not just revered by Decorum, but also by many young Burgundian vignerons who have learnt much from his teaching at Beaune’s viticultural school (some of whom have become quite famous…but the limelight is not for Monsieur Charlot…and anyway, he’s way too busy working the holdings). As for the wines, nothing showy here, the different ‘terroirs’ express themselves beautifully.