Our connection to owner Jonathan Auerbach goes back to the 1980s. For it was one of the Decvin team that arranged the wine for his wedding. Fast forward to 2016, we bumped into him again: he revealed that he’d since become the owner of a small Chianti property in 1998, and in 2010, had started to make wine. It would have been utterly churlish not to taste his 2014 that he’d just released. Bingo.

The Conca d’Oro (‘golden basin’) may not be too familiar a name, but the town of Panzano might ring a bell to those who have visited Tuscany – one of the Chianti region’s classic small towns (and home to one of Italy’s most famous butchers). We know it well because it is here that La Massa is situated, and Pesa must be less than a mile away, as the crow flies. So, it sits right at the very heart of the finest Chianti holdings. As one would expect, it’s the Sangiovese grape that holds court, making a tighter, more linear style than its siblings further south.