The village of Chambolle, home to one of THE great Burgundy vineyards, Le Musigny itself, conjures some of the most sublime Pinot Noirs. But it’s not easy to find a good source: lots of the best wines are taken (at absurdly high prices), while other estates trade on the village’s reputation, content to offer ‘vin ordinaire’. Much joy, therefore, when we alighted in the Sigaut cellar for their 2004s.

It was in 1990 that Anne, with husband Hervé, took over the Maurice Sigaut holdings in Chambolle-Musigny, and neighbouring Morey-Saint-Denis. Back then, the wines were somewhat ‘under the radar’ – perhaps it was because there was no Grand Cru for sale, nor the most famous of all Chambolle 1er Crus, that of Les Amoureuses? Whatever it was, you cannot keep great wine secret for too long, when the whole of the world’s wine trade is so focused on Burgundy. A tasting here is always one of the year’s vinous highlights.