There was a time when Spanish wine seemed to be everywhere: their reds, particularly Rioja, peerlessly ruled the roost for value (and one could always find mature examples at what appeared to be absurd prices), while Cava was almost always served as an alternative to Champagne. OK, so fashions may have changed (don’t they always?), but Spain hasn’t… actually, strike that, it has, for it’s got even better. Ribera del Duero, Toro, and Priorat now vie for supremacy with Rioja, while whites like Albariño, Godello, and Verdelho are to be found on many restaurant wine-lists, and not just in the tapas bars – Spain now back in vogue, perhaps?